When it comes to following food safety guidelines, master chef Michael Ruhlman is a bit of a culinary maverick. In an article for The New York Times, journalist Harold McGee chronicles the steps Ruhlman takes as he prepares his chicken stock which seems ordinary enough, except when he gets to the part where Ruhlman lets his stock sit on the stovetop all week, ladling out portions to make soups and sauces daily. Though he acknowledges that his method is unconventional, Ruhlman claims he s not totally reckless: he emphasizes the importance of allowing the stock to boil for at least 10 minutes before using it, in order to kill any of the harmful bacteria that have been cultivated there over the past few days.
According to guidelines from the USDA, however, prepared foods should not be left at room temperature for more than two hours and if it's especially hot outside, no more than one hour. Though Dr. O. Peter Snyder, a food scientist, believes that some of these rules are unnecessarily conservative, he does admit that Ruhlman's process is a a very high-risk procedure. Even though boiling does kill any active bacteria, says Snyder, a number of inactive spores may still survive and can produce toxins once the food is cooled below 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
Though some cases of food-borne illness may not be severe enough to merit hospitalization, simple mistakes at home can still have fatal consequences. That's why it's important to chill leftovers in refrigerators in covered, shallow pans so they cool thoroughly, and to make sure cooked foods don't sit out at temperatures between 41 and 135 degrees for longer than four hours, Dr. Snyder advises.
By flouting recommended food guidelines, you are putting yourself and your family at risk of severe food poisoning, says ACSH's Dr. Ruth Kava. For most people, these guidelines are protective. If you're like Chef Ruhlman and know what you're doing, you can adjust the guidelines to suit your needs. But if you're not a professional cook, then you should definitely stick to the rules. Ruhlman's procedures are a good example of what not to do at home.
ACSH's Dr. Josh Bloom says: If anyone takes his advice, they're just asking for trouble. Even if you follow his recipes assiduously, there are some bacterial toxins that, once formed, will not be destroyed by heat. He adds, Those anticipating dinner invitations from Mr. Ruhlman might want to start putting together a list of excuses for why they can't make it.